Excursione
20th July 2010
Whilst staying with Olgei and Mzia in Georgia Aaron and I went on many exciting excursiones. No, I haven't spelt that wrong 'excusione' is the Georgian word represented in the English alphabet. Aaron and I visited Kobuleti on the coast where we swam in the black sea and ate ice cream and re-visited Batumi for internet, shopping and fast food, but we didn't make it to the botanical gardens there as it rained. We also went to Khutsabani for a supra with Mzia's family one evening. However my favourite excusiones were when we travelled by foot rather than marshutka. Hiking is not a common hobby in Georgia, but there are plenty of quiet country roads connecting small villages which are ideal for the pursuit.
Aaron and my first adventure was actually somewhat unintentional. We departed the house for a tour of Mukaestate and in Aaron's continuous strive to 'travel light' he persuaded me not to carry any water or provisions. After seeing the limited sights of the village and meeting a couple of Aaron's students Aaron took me on one of his old running routes. Some while after he had inadvertently taken a wrong turning I came to the realisation that we were lost! The paved road we were on diminished into a set of vague muddy and grassy tracks that were lined by an avenue of trees which provided the main source of direction. For a while the only creatures that we met were cows, placidly munching on the grass. I foraged for succulent blackberries which provided a delicious sustenance. Luckily we then came across a couple of men who pointed us in the direction of the nearest village, Choloki. In Choloki we were met by many stares as I doubt many foreigners have strolled into this remote place before (no peace corps volunteers either). Fortunately with Aaron being able to speak Georgian we found a small shop in someone's house where we purchased a bottle of generic cola and got directions for a bus. Choloki was at the end of a bus line which ran to Kobuleti where we got off and got a marshutka to Mukaestate. When we got back to Mukaestate we enjoyed a rather late and much needed dinner whilst watching the first half of the football world cup final.
On Sunday Aaron and I went on another excursione, this time it was a planned expedition into the beautiful (lamazi) mountains. We left Mukaestate early in the morning and hiked over the nearest foothill to get to the Kintrishi river running through Soper Kobuleti. Surrounded by luscious green mountains rising up all around we stopped for a breakfast of pears and peanuts. Then it began to pitter-patter with rain and we sheltered under a bridge for a while. We read our books and watched the ripples in the water cast out from the droplets of rain, while we waited for it to let up. When the rain stopped we decided to continue up into the mountains as it appeared to be an overcast day so we wouldn't be hindered by the scorching sun at midday.
We followed the road as it wound it's way up the valley above the river that Aaron once tubed down with a couple of other peace corps volunteers. The road curved in and out following the undulating side of the hills. When we paused to rest and turned away from the forest rising ahead, to look back on where we had come from it amazed me how far our legs had carried us in one morning. Somehow whenever I go hiking this never ceases to surprise me. We could see as far as Kobuleti and the black sea on the horizon. High up in the mountains we found the village Chahati where we purchased biscuits, fanta, raisins and stale bread for lunch, from a family with a small shop in their house. The children of the house came round to stare at us as they don't get many Americans or English here. Apparently the peace crops investigated the village for volunteer potential, but decided it was too remote.
We sat by the river to eat our surgery junk food which tasted very sweet compared to what we were usually eating. Aaron dipped in the water, but I only put my feet in as it was icy cold. We crossed the river and followed the road a little further before heading back to Chahti for the 3pm bus to Kobuleti. Chahati is at the end of the bus line and we managed to grab front row seats while the villagers were milling around. The bus packed out with people who turned out to be going to a wedding in the neighbouring village. The driver switched on the engine which sputtered to life, then he turned the bus around and lurched and jolted down the rocky road. With nothing to hold onto I clenched my fists and toes nervously, as the rickety shell of a bus bounced its way down the hill. The bus looked rather like a giant, rusty tin can. At times there was a sheer drop on one side which I knew was probably a lot more dangerous than any theme park ride I had been on, but seeing as none of the passengers were screaming I felt relatively calm. Somehow we made it safely to Kobuleti where we got a marshutka to Muklaestate. When we retuned the neighbouring children were excited to see us, so Aaron offered to take them on an excusione that evening. Lasha was so excited he grasped and kissed Aaron, followed by me!
Yesterday was a hot day, so Aaron and I hiked two hours to get to the nearest section of the Kintrishi river. There we imitated tubing, but without the tubes i.e. we sat in the river drinking beer, thinking what a great way this was to spend a Monday! Definitely beats working!
Today however was probably my favourite trip that we went on in Geogia. Olegi organised for his brother-in-law Khatsuna, to drive his marshutka way up into the mountains to a village called Bakhmaro. Early this morning Khatsuna, Olegi, Aliko, Benglari (host-cousin), Aaron and myself all clambered into the marshutka. It was a long drive with some of the most incredible views I have ever seen. The road leading up the side of the mountain had been a surprisingly well maintained road, which is apparently closed during the winter due to snow. When we reached the top of the mountain, there nestled in a bowl shaped dip we found a substantial community. People from all over the area have built second homes up here that they live in for 1-3 during the summer to escape the heat. Within the valley we crossed some unnervingly rough terrain, which made the treachery of the Chahati bus drive pale into insignificance!
In Bakhmaro people from different regions live in specific areas of the settlement. Olegi bumped into a friend of his there, who generously invited us into their wooden hut for a supra. We had brought with us bread, tomatoes, cucumber, wine and vodka. The two ladies of the house had obviously not been expecting company, but somehow in about an hour or so they produced this most amazing feast with many dishes of their own food! After all the men and myself had stuffed ourselves and consumed much vodka and wine Olegi gave Aaron and I a couple of hours to go on a hike. Aaron was feeling a little worse for ware, by due to my keenness stumbled up the mountain with me. We didn't get too far before it started to rain and it was time to turn back, but the views were dramatic and I would love to go there again sometime.
Whilst staying with Olgei and Mzia in Georgia Aaron and I went on many exciting excursiones. No, I haven't spelt that wrong 'excusione' is the Georgian word represented in the English alphabet. Aaron and I visited Kobuleti on the coast where we swam in the black sea and ate ice cream and re-visited Batumi for internet, shopping and fast food, but we didn't make it to the botanical gardens there as it rained. We also went to Khutsabani for a supra with Mzia's family one evening. However my favourite excusiones were when we travelled by foot rather than marshutka. Hiking is not a common hobby in Georgia, but there are plenty of quiet country roads connecting small villages which are ideal for the pursuit.
Aaron and my first adventure was actually somewhat unintentional. We departed the house for a tour of Mukaestate and in Aaron's continuous strive to 'travel light' he persuaded me not to carry any water or provisions. After seeing the limited sights of the village and meeting a couple of Aaron's students Aaron took me on one of his old running routes. Some while after he had inadvertently taken a wrong turning I came to the realisation that we were lost! The paved road we were on diminished into a set of vague muddy and grassy tracks that were lined by an avenue of trees which provided the main source of direction. For a while the only creatures that we met were cows, placidly munching on the grass. I foraged for succulent blackberries which provided a delicious sustenance. Luckily we then came across a couple of men who pointed us in the direction of the nearest village, Choloki. In Choloki we were met by many stares as I doubt many foreigners have strolled into this remote place before (no peace corps volunteers either). Fortunately with Aaron being able to speak Georgian we found a small shop in someone's house where we purchased a bottle of generic cola and got directions for a bus. Choloki was at the end of a bus line which ran to Kobuleti where we got off and got a marshutka to Mukaestate. When we got back to Mukaestate we enjoyed a rather late and much needed dinner whilst watching the first half of the football world cup final.
On Sunday Aaron and I went on another excursione, this time it was a planned expedition into the beautiful (lamazi) mountains. We left Mukaestate early in the morning and hiked over the nearest foothill to get to the Kintrishi river running through Soper Kobuleti. Surrounded by luscious green mountains rising up all around we stopped for a breakfast of pears and peanuts. Then it began to pitter-patter with rain and we sheltered under a bridge for a while. We read our books and watched the ripples in the water cast out from the droplets of rain, while we waited for it to let up. When the rain stopped we decided to continue up into the mountains as it appeared to be an overcast day so we wouldn't be hindered by the scorching sun at midday.
We followed the road as it wound it's way up the valley above the river that Aaron once tubed down with a couple of other peace corps volunteers. The road curved in and out following the undulating side of the hills. When we paused to rest and turned away from the forest rising ahead, to look back on where we had come from it amazed me how far our legs had carried us in one morning. Somehow whenever I go hiking this never ceases to surprise me. We could see as far as Kobuleti and the black sea on the horizon. High up in the mountains we found the village Chahati where we purchased biscuits, fanta, raisins and stale bread for lunch, from a family with a small shop in their house. The children of the house came round to stare at us as they don't get many Americans or English here. Apparently the peace crops investigated the village for volunteer potential, but decided it was too remote.
We sat by the river to eat our surgery junk food which tasted very sweet compared to what we were usually eating. Aaron dipped in the water, but I only put my feet in as it was icy cold. We crossed the river and followed the road a little further before heading back to Chahti for the 3pm bus to Kobuleti. Chahati is at the end of the bus line and we managed to grab front row seats while the villagers were milling around. The bus packed out with people who turned out to be going to a wedding in the neighbouring village. The driver switched on the engine which sputtered to life, then he turned the bus around and lurched and jolted down the rocky road. With nothing to hold onto I clenched my fists and toes nervously, as the rickety shell of a bus bounced its way down the hill. The bus looked rather like a giant, rusty tin can. At times there was a sheer drop on one side which I knew was probably a lot more dangerous than any theme park ride I had been on, but seeing as none of the passengers were screaming I felt relatively calm. Somehow we made it safely to Kobuleti where we got a marshutka to Muklaestate. When we retuned the neighbouring children were excited to see us, so Aaron offered to take them on an excusione that evening. Lasha was so excited he grasped and kissed Aaron, followed by me!
Yesterday was a hot day, so Aaron and I hiked two hours to get to the nearest section of the Kintrishi river. There we imitated tubing, but without the tubes i.e. we sat in the river drinking beer, thinking what a great way this was to spend a Monday! Definitely beats working!
Today however was probably my favourite trip that we went on in Geogia. Olegi organised for his brother-in-law Khatsuna, to drive his marshutka way up into the mountains to a village called Bakhmaro. Early this morning Khatsuna, Olegi, Aliko, Benglari (host-cousin), Aaron and myself all clambered into the marshutka. It was a long drive with some of the most incredible views I have ever seen. The road leading up the side of the mountain had been a surprisingly well maintained road, which is apparently closed during the winter due to snow. When we reached the top of the mountain, there nestled in a bowl shaped dip we found a substantial community. People from all over the area have built second homes up here that they live in for 1-3 during the summer to escape the heat. Within the valley we crossed some unnervingly rough terrain, which made the treachery of the Chahati bus drive pale into insignificance!
In Bakhmaro people from different regions live in specific areas of the settlement. Olegi bumped into a friend of his there, who generously invited us into their wooden hut for a supra. We had brought with us bread, tomatoes, cucumber, wine and vodka. The two ladies of the house had obviously not been expecting company, but somehow in about an hour or so they produced this most amazing feast with many dishes of their own food! After all the men and myself had stuffed ourselves and consumed much vodka and wine Olegi gave Aaron and I a couple of hours to go on a hike. Aaron was feeling a little worse for ware, by due to my keenness stumbled up the mountain with me. We didn't get too far before it started to rain and it was time to turn back, but the views were dramatic and I would love to go there again sometime.
Comments
Glad you all liked it, I had planned to put pics in, but ran out of time. I'll add some now :) Though it was hard to choose the pics, some are better of the landscape, some are better of us!