Jungle trekking with Mr Bunleod
15th October 2010
I stepped cautiously onto a log balanced precariously across a small stream that winds it's way through a thick forest. On our third day of trekking guided by Mr Bunleod we experienced the real jungle environment we had been expecting to hike through. We had planned to leave early in the morning so that Aaron and I could catch a bus to Nakon Phanom in the afternoon, but after two days of brilliant sunshine this morning we woke to the gentle drumming of rain on the metal roof. We waited till around 11am for the rain to let up and seeing as we weren't on a tight schedule we delayed our onward journey till the next day.
We set out on scooters on the short (3-5km) journey to the nearest entrance to the Pua Wau Wildlife Sanctuary. The track was very muddy, so I had to hop off the bike several times and suggested we might as well have walked! After parking the bikes we entered the jungle and took up a winding trail. We crossed a stream using a narrow wooden pole to tread on and a hand rail. The route was obviously maintained, but only well enough for the agile. We soon began our accent of the mountain and the path rose above us with a steep incline. Wooden logs had been used to create steps. Around us glossy wet leaves hung from the trees. We paused to admire a beautiful butterfly. It sprinkled with rain again. We could hear the soft pitter-patter of the droplets hitting the canopy above us, but not enough broke through to get us wet. When the trees grew denser we ducked under branches and pushed aside twigs.
When we reached the top of Pau Wau mountain the views were amazing. The camera never seems to do justice to long distance views, but I guess that makes them worthwhile visiting. We could see Phu Tok, where we were yesterday, and Mr B's village. The sandstone surface at the top had become extremely slick with the rain. We walked gingerly taking small baby steps. We ate lunch under a rocky outcrop where monks sometimes come. Mr B had brought fried rice and omlette in plastic bags. I'd never have thought of this for a packed lunch, but it worked fine.
After lunch we nearly got stuck on a slippery incline. I stepped as slowly and carefully as I could, but when my footing lost grip I began to slide uncontrollably down the rock on my bottom, as if it was a water slide. Mr B who was waiting just below me to give me a hand was taken with me and we tumbled down like something in a comic book. Next Aaron came sliding down after us, but this time I was ready with the camera! We visited another outcropping with a good view for a rest. Mr B looked at the trail down and since it was slippery sandstone for a long way he decided we had better go back the way we came. I was very nervous about climbing back up the rock, but with encouragement from the others and the support of a stick they held out to me I made it up.
Soon after this the path crossed a rock-face that was not as slick, but to the sides was a steep, slippery drop. I knew how hard it would be to stop if I started sliding on that, so I just tried not to look down. A short while later we came to a pool that was over 3m deep. Aaron enjoyed leaping into the pool, but it was a little chilly so I didn't go in. We hiked to another waterfall and then headed down as it was getting late. It took us less than an hour to get down and then we motored back, exhausted, at twilight.
For dinner I thought Mr B was taking us to another party. I was so tired I was not really in the mood for anything wild, so I was pleasantly surprised when it turned out he was just taking us to a couple of bungalows he is constructing a short walk from his home. He's building them in his rice paddies to rent to tourists and he thought having us there for dinner would bring good luck. His brother-in-law and his nephew, Chim, joined us for grilled fish and whiskey, and a vegetable dish prepared by Chim's wife for me. Mr B also brought a hammock for me to rest in after dinner.
During the course of the evening we found out that Mr B and Chim work for the municipality monitoring the water supply. In addition to this work, and guiding and hosting tourists he also owns a small amount of rice paddies and rubber trees. Apparently he likes to keep his investments diversified! We had wondered how he was able to skip out of work for three days at such short notice, but apparently it is good for his prestige to be seen with foreigners. I had been concerned how our bill for three days of guiding was going to add up, but when we were given the total the following day it was less than we expected. I was relieved there was no scam on tourists, but at dinner we learned Mr B had been drawing full salary the last few days while he was running around with us. He was such a nice and friendly guy it was fascinating to see none of the group seemed concerned about the ethics of this and a few other similar stories they mentioned.
On the walk back from dinner we were invited to join a neighbour's drinking party and enjoyed another whiskey. The following day we went to the bus stop at midday and waited two and a half hours for the bus to Nakon Phanom to pick us up. We had some amazing and enjoyable experiences with Mr B. It was a lot less stressful having someone else organise the plans and order the food, however we were also looking forward to getting back to choosing things ourselves.
I stepped cautiously onto a log balanced precariously across a small stream that winds it's way through a thick forest. On our third day of trekking guided by Mr Bunleod we experienced the real jungle environment we had been expecting to hike through. We had planned to leave early in the morning so that Aaron and I could catch a bus to Nakon Phanom in the afternoon, but after two days of brilliant sunshine this morning we woke to the gentle drumming of rain on the metal roof. We waited till around 11am for the rain to let up and seeing as we weren't on a tight schedule we delayed our onward journey till the next day.
We set out on scooters on the short (3-5km) journey to the nearest entrance to the Pua Wau Wildlife Sanctuary. The track was very muddy, so I had to hop off the bike several times and suggested we might as well have walked! After parking the bikes we entered the jungle and took up a winding trail. We crossed a stream using a narrow wooden pole to tread on and a hand rail. The route was obviously maintained, but only well enough for the agile. We soon began our accent of the mountain and the path rose above us with a steep incline. Wooden logs had been used to create steps. Around us glossy wet leaves hung from the trees. We paused to admire a beautiful butterfly. It sprinkled with rain again. We could hear the soft pitter-patter of the droplets hitting the canopy above us, but not enough broke through to get us wet. When the trees grew denser we ducked under branches and pushed aside twigs.
When we reached the top of Pau Wau mountain the views were amazing. The camera never seems to do justice to long distance views, but I guess that makes them worthwhile visiting. We could see Phu Tok, where we were yesterday, and Mr B's village. The sandstone surface at the top had become extremely slick with the rain. We walked gingerly taking small baby steps. We ate lunch under a rocky outcrop where monks sometimes come. Mr B had brought fried rice and omlette in plastic bags. I'd never have thought of this for a packed lunch, but it worked fine.
After lunch we nearly got stuck on a slippery incline. I stepped as slowly and carefully as I could, but when my footing lost grip I began to slide uncontrollably down the rock on my bottom, as if it was a water slide. Mr B who was waiting just below me to give me a hand was taken with me and we tumbled down like something in a comic book. Next Aaron came sliding down after us, but this time I was ready with the camera! We visited another outcropping with a good view for a rest. Mr B looked at the trail down and since it was slippery sandstone for a long way he decided we had better go back the way we came. I was very nervous about climbing back up the rock, but with encouragement from the others and the support of a stick they held out to me I made it up.
Soon after this the path crossed a rock-face that was not as slick, but to the sides was a steep, slippery drop. I knew how hard it would be to stop if I started sliding on that, so I just tried not to look down. A short while later we came to a pool that was over 3m deep. Aaron enjoyed leaping into the pool, but it was a little chilly so I didn't go in. We hiked to another waterfall and then headed down as it was getting late. It took us less than an hour to get down and then we motored back, exhausted, at twilight.
For dinner I thought Mr B was taking us to another party. I was so tired I was not really in the mood for anything wild, so I was pleasantly surprised when it turned out he was just taking us to a couple of bungalows he is constructing a short walk from his home. He's building them in his rice paddies to rent to tourists and he thought having us there for dinner would bring good luck. His brother-in-law and his nephew, Chim, joined us for grilled fish and whiskey, and a vegetable dish prepared by Chim's wife for me. Mr B also brought a hammock for me to rest in after dinner.
During the course of the evening we found out that Mr B and Chim work for the municipality monitoring the water supply. In addition to this work, and guiding and hosting tourists he also owns a small amount of rice paddies and rubber trees. Apparently he likes to keep his investments diversified! We had wondered how he was able to skip out of work for three days at such short notice, but apparently it is good for his prestige to be seen with foreigners. I had been concerned how our bill for three days of guiding was going to add up, but when we were given the total the following day it was less than we expected. I was relieved there was no scam on tourists, but at dinner we learned Mr B had been drawing full salary the last few days while he was running around with us. He was such a nice and friendly guy it was fascinating to see none of the group seemed concerned about the ethics of this and a few other similar stories they mentioned.
On the walk back from dinner we were invited to join a neighbour's drinking party and enjoyed another whiskey. The following day we went to the bus stop at midday and waited two and a half hours for the bus to Nakon Phanom to pick us up. We had some amazing and enjoyable experiences with Mr B. It was a lot less stressful having someone else organise the plans and order the food, however we were also looking forward to getting back to choosing things ourselves.
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