Bus ride from hell
8th-9th August 2010
As Aaron, Meredith and myself climbed aboard the rickety government bus that runs from Amritsar to Manali, we looked around ourselves in dismay at where we were going to spend the next fourteen hours or so. We had arrived at the bus station early and found the bus before it had even pulled into it's numbered slot. The vehicle was filled with hard, plastic benches without a reclining cushioned seat in sight. We tested the seats trying to select which would be the least painless to spend the night on. Meredith noticed a couple of seats with more leg room, at the back of the bus, behind the exit. There was only space for two in front of the exit, (or so we thought) so Aaron kindly took the isle seat the row in front. When we investigated the bus station the day before we were told that this bus usually wasn't full. So we now envisioned ourselves laying across the benches later that night. Unfortunately we were soon to be sorely disappointed.
It was a very hot afternoon and sweat poured down my body in large droplets, that tickled as they rolled across my skin. I was already drenched before the bus took off about 4pm. When we lurched out out of the bus station the bus was already almost full. I soon realised there was little hope of being able to stretch out across benches and consigned myself to staying awake for the whole night. More and more people boarded the bus and soon there were so many passengers that some where left standing in the isle. The back bench where Meredith and I were sat was numbered with seats 43 - 47, but Meredith had been assigned seat #48. This caused some confusion as it turned out she had been given the conductors seat which was labelled on the side of the wall not over any actual space. Once six of us were squeezed on the back row it was very uncomfortable being pressed up against two other sweaty bodies. Being at the back of a vehicle with little suspension also meant that we were constantly thrown up-and-down, making it impossible to drink water and very difficult to read.
Not long into our journey we stopped at a railway station, where were told there would be a half hour break. Half and hour came and went. We searched through the bus depot to find our bus and discovered they were putting new breaks on the bus. It reassured me that we would be making the rest of the journey with better breaks, but it was also disconcerting watching them working on such an important feature of the vehicle half way through the trip. About an hour and a half passed and we were on our way again.
Part way through the journey Meredith began complaining that she didn't feel well and that she needed to lie down. She curled up on a bag at our feet, put her head on her seat and asked me to arch my legs over her and rest them on a railing behind her. I asked her if she wanted to get off at the next hotel we saw and travel on the next day. To my disappointment she resolutely stayed on the bus and tried to convince me she would be fine after a nap. A short while later a drunk man vomited in the isle splattering Aaron's shoe and trouser leg. This caused another passenger to be sick out of the window. After a few hours Meredith came out of her fever and asked incredulously 'Are we still on the bus?' I woefully confirmed that we were, however to my admiration Meredith's mood soon picked up to it's usual perky self. I couldn't help but think what a great travelling buddy she makes since she's always taking an optimistic view.
When we got to one of the late night rest stop I searched in vain for a toilet. This repeated again at the next break, where none of the small cafes had any facilities. In desperation I walked with Meredith a little further down the road from where the men were urinating. We squelched to the stinking ditch at the side of the road and squatted there, not an experience that I would like to repeat.
As the bus climbed through the Himalayas and we neared our destination, there was a cold chill in the mountain air. Most of the passengers closed their windows which made the bus stuffy and humid, and smelt stagnant. I sat by the open window at the back with the cold current of air rushing over my face. We were nearing our destination, but I felt very sick. I began to weep and I couldn't wait until the journey was over.
We eventually arrived in Manali about 6am. I kept my head in my hands and told Aaron I didn't care where we went so long as he found me a decent bed, I would just follow him. We took a rickshaw a short, but very steep journey up to the nearby town Vashist. We knocked on the door of a hotel recommended by the lonely planet, hoping that someone would be awake and have a room available. They didn't have any rooms, but the place next door did. As I climbed into bed exhausted I noticed the most stunning view from the huge glass windows and I looked forward to appreciating it once I had got some rest.
As Aaron, Meredith and myself climbed aboard the rickety government bus that runs from Amritsar to Manali, we looked around ourselves in dismay at where we were going to spend the next fourteen hours or so. We had arrived at the bus station early and found the bus before it had even pulled into it's numbered slot. The vehicle was filled with hard, plastic benches without a reclining cushioned seat in sight. We tested the seats trying to select which would be the least painless to spend the night on. Meredith noticed a couple of seats with more leg room, at the back of the bus, behind the exit. There was only space for two in front of the exit, (or so we thought) so Aaron kindly took the isle seat the row in front. When we investigated the bus station the day before we were told that this bus usually wasn't full. So we now envisioned ourselves laying across the benches later that night. Unfortunately we were soon to be sorely disappointed.
It was a very hot afternoon and sweat poured down my body in large droplets, that tickled as they rolled across my skin. I was already drenched before the bus took off about 4pm. When we lurched out out of the bus station the bus was already almost full. I soon realised there was little hope of being able to stretch out across benches and consigned myself to staying awake for the whole night. More and more people boarded the bus and soon there were so many passengers that some where left standing in the isle. The back bench where Meredith and I were sat was numbered with seats 43 - 47, but Meredith had been assigned seat #48. This caused some confusion as it turned out she had been given the conductors seat which was labelled on the side of the wall not over any actual space. Once six of us were squeezed on the back row it was very uncomfortable being pressed up against two other sweaty bodies. Being at the back of a vehicle with little suspension also meant that we were constantly thrown up-and-down, making it impossible to drink water and very difficult to read.
Not long into our journey we stopped at a railway station, where were told there would be a half hour break. Half and hour came and went. We searched through the bus depot to find our bus and discovered they were putting new breaks on the bus. It reassured me that we would be making the rest of the journey with better breaks, but it was also disconcerting watching them working on such an important feature of the vehicle half way through the trip. About an hour and a half passed and we were on our way again.
Part way through the journey Meredith began complaining that she didn't feel well and that she needed to lie down. She curled up on a bag at our feet, put her head on her seat and asked me to arch my legs over her and rest them on a railing behind her. I asked her if she wanted to get off at the next hotel we saw and travel on the next day. To my disappointment she resolutely stayed on the bus and tried to convince me she would be fine after a nap. A short while later a drunk man vomited in the isle splattering Aaron's shoe and trouser leg. This caused another passenger to be sick out of the window. After a few hours Meredith came out of her fever and asked incredulously 'Are we still on the bus?' I woefully confirmed that we were, however to my admiration Meredith's mood soon picked up to it's usual perky self. I couldn't help but think what a great travelling buddy she makes since she's always taking an optimistic view.
When we got to one of the late night rest stop I searched in vain for a toilet. This repeated again at the next break, where none of the small cafes had any facilities. In desperation I walked with Meredith a little further down the road from where the men were urinating. We squelched to the stinking ditch at the side of the road and squatted there, not an experience that I would like to repeat.
As the bus climbed through the Himalayas and we neared our destination, there was a cold chill in the mountain air. Most of the passengers closed their windows which made the bus stuffy and humid, and smelt stagnant. I sat by the open window at the back with the cold current of air rushing over my face. We were nearing our destination, but I felt very sick. I began to weep and I couldn't wait until the journey was over.
We eventually arrived in Manali about 6am. I kept my head in my hands and told Aaron I didn't care where we went so long as he found me a decent bed, I would just follow him. We took a rickshaw a short, but very steep journey up to the nearby town Vashist. We knocked on the door of a hotel recommended by the lonely planet, hoping that someone would be awake and have a room available. They didn't have any rooms, but the place next door did. As I climbed into bed exhausted I noticed the most stunning view from the huge glass windows and I looked forward to appreciating it once I had got some rest.
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