Enjoying Kartveli hospitality

18th July 2010

Aaron and I are visiting Aaron's host family from when he was teaching English for the Peace Corps in Mukaestate, Georgia. When we arrived on Saturday 10th July we were welcomed into Olegi (host dad) and Mzia's (host mum's) home. We hadn't yet had lunch so we were treated to a supra (celebration dinner) about 3pm in the afternoon which included a vast array of different dishes, beer or water to drink and vodka, cognac or wine to toast with. Toasts included peace and God, Aaron and I, family in Texas, Britain and Georgia, grandparents, women, those no longer with us, friends, etc. Several of the neighbours visited to greet us and Aaron translated multiple times that I am a 'good girl' ('kargi cogo') and he is a clever boy for marrying me! Olegi and Mzia's eldest son Aliko was in Batumi for the day so I got to meet him in the evening when, as if we hadn't consumed enough already, the supra process was repeated. Unfortunately their other son Mindia was away in Slovenia so I didn't get to meet him, however it was good news that he just graduated from University and is working as a sailor. We also learned the sad news that Olegi's mother, Aaron's host grandmother (bebo) has passed away.

Mzia is such a kind hearted woman and is always making sure we're well fed and taken care of. There is certainly never a chance to go hungry, which is remarkable given that my stomach must have expanded in Kefalonia where I was eating at least twice as much as I usually do. If a Georgian woman thinks there is even a chance a guest might be hungry, she looks shocked as though a crime has been committed! I don't know how Mzia and other Georgian women do it every day, but there is always a large selection of dishes on the table. For a supra there might be at least 9-10 different dishes and even when I just wanted a snack or breakfast 5-6 plates would appear on the table. To add to the challenge the tap in Mzia's kitchen is currently not working so water has to be carried in in buckets. It's a small kitchen and I hope this room is next in line for refurbishment.

Mzia and Olegi have a large and airy house, the first room you walk into is the living room which has beautiful wood panelling on the walls and ceiling. It looks very smart, but can make the room a little dark. Behind the living room is the kitchen and to the right of the living room is Olegi and Mzia's room (though I never went in there). Downstairs they also have a luxurious new bathroom, of a similar quality to my sister's new bathroom, which I enjoyed the use of other than a few days when the water went off. During that time I was forced to experience the old toilet that Aaron used for over two years. Down a rickety concrete path in the garden there is a wooden hut, where I found a concrete squat loo in which the stench was so bad it made me wretch.

Aaron and my room is upstairs which is accessed by a concrete staircase outdoors, lined by some lovely purple flowers. The room is large and light with a high ceiling. We also have use of the adjoining room with a table, chairs and cabinet full of china and glass. On one wall hangs a faded rug which I think covers a broken window and cracking wood panelling. Olegi and Mzia have a large amount of land surrounding the house where they have a mandarin orchard for profit and a huge array of vegetables, fruit and nuts for themselves. They also own chickens, a cow and two calves, which means they hardly need to buy anything. I got to watch Mzia milk the cow and also try myself. I was disappointed that despite being the granddaughter of a dairy farmer I didn't get the technique! It was wonderful to have such fresh and home-made food, I wish if I get a house that I would have the time a patience to produce some of my own food. In front of the house is a large concrete drive where Aaron and I enjoyed playing badminton and ball games with the neighbouring kids one evening.